Interview of Marc Alexander Hayek: #blancpain #jaquetdroz #breguet and #harrywinston 08 May 2013


 

An interview by Christophe Roulet.

Where will Harry Winston fit into this portfolio?
We’re still very much in the analysis phase regarding Harry Winston. In jewellery, such remarkable work has been accomplished that absolutely nothing needs changing. One of our priorities will be to carry this expertise and renown across into the lady’s watch segment. Our aim is that a Harry Winston watch on a lady’s wrist should be immediately recognisable and desirable. As for the Opus, we’ll certainly carry on the concept but possibly not on an annual basis, and perhaps as a more limited edition each time. So expect a few adjustments. As for the brand’s complication timepieces, at this stage it’s difficult to form an opinion for the long term. One thing is for sure, I’m looking forward to working with the people at Harry Winston, especially as watches, which currently represent a third of the brand’s revenues, offer the best prospects for growth, if only thanks to the network of distribution and supplies that Swatch Group brings.

Read all the interview in the HH Magazine

  An interview by Christophe Roulet. Where will Harry Winston fit into this portfolio? We’re still very much in the analysis phase regarding Harry Winston. In jewellery, such remarkable work has been accomplished that absolutely nothing needs changing. One of our priorities will be to carry this expertise and renown across into the lady’s watch [...]

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On Monday #christies #auction with a 800’000 to one million CHF perpetual calendar with moonphase by #patekphilippe 08 May 2013


An article by Fabrice Eschmann

This week end last auctions of the spring season will take place.

Christie’s will close it on Monday, and will presenting what is without doubt the weekend’s most interesting selection of watches from Patek Philippe (100 pieces) and Rolex (115 pieces) representing 60% of the 360 lots to be auctioned. One example is this very sought-after white gold Patek Philippe with a perpetual calendar and moon phases produced in 1981, ref. 3448. “What makes it special” explains Tellier, “is that it indicates the leap years in a small window between 3 and 4 o’clock. But the first perpetual calendars with this function only appeared at Patek in 1982 and carry the reference 3450, so this piece must be a transitional model.” This subtlety has raised its estimate to CHF 800,000 – 1.4 million.

 

Read more about last Spring season Geneva auctions in the HH Magazine

An article by Fabrice Eschmann This week end last auctions of the spring season will take place. Christie’s will close it on Monday, and will presenting what is without doubt the weekend’s most interesting selection of watches from Patek Philippe (100 pieces) and Rolex (115 pieces) representing 60% of the 360 lots to be auctioned. [...]

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Corum CEO Antonio Calce: “Mr. Hon has adopted not just a man but also a management style” 03 May 2013



Antonio Calce can breathe freely at last: the news was announced as a prelude to Baselworld 2013, Corum has just been bought by China Haidian. The group, notably involved in watch brand distribution in China, had already acquired Eterna in 2011. The CEO is happy to see Corum’s financial problems resolved. Above all, he is glad to be able to push ahead with his own brand as well as with Eterna, whose business he will be supervising. We met with him at Baselworld.

Antonio Calce was talking to Julie Mégevand / WtheJournal.com

Read the interview on the HH Magazine

Antonio Calce can breathe freely at last: the news was announced as a prelude to Baselworld 2013, Corum has just been bought by China Haidian. The group, notably involved in watch brand distribution in China, had already acquired Eterna in 2011. The CEO is happy to see Corum’s financial problems resolved. Above all, he is [...]

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Baselworld on form! SQUARE. 02 May 2013


 

Baselworld: be there or be square. Alias Sq’e. The (square) root of the matter is that we’re all happy but exhausted. Especially if you’ve been playing since day one. Baselworld is all about staying power, working by day and partying by night.

The revamped Show offers countless opportunities to admire a good, honest Sq’e, cf. Maurice Lacroix, Bell & Ross or Cyrus (see above). But what keeps a Sq’e on the square? A real square stands upright, firmly planted on its four corners, a succession of solid 90° angles. No matter how much you try to bend the Sq’e out of shape, it will never waver! Not that we’re against thinking outside the box. A Sq’e can be as much Swiss cross as crossover.
Your pockets are bulging with business cards (other people’s, we hope!). Your brain is overloaded with information. Day after day, you’ve squared the circle with watchmaking’s finest. And now you’re ready to drop. Nothing a square meal won’t put right before one last night on the tiles, preferably at one of Breitling’s legendary parties…
Of course, the great thing about the Sq’e is that it never takes sides… at Baselworld, everyone’s a winner!

  Baselworld: be there or be square. Alias Sq’e. The (square) root of the matter is that we’re all happy but exhausted. Especially if you’ve been playing since day one. Baselworld is all about staying power, working by day and partying by night. The revamped Show offers countless opportunities to admire a good, honest Sq’e, [...]

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Baselworld – HH Magazine: Louis Vuitton races to success 02 May 2013


In this 30th anniversary year of the Louis Vuitton Cup, prelude to the America’s Cup, the Parisian luggage-maker, and watchmaker since 2002, presents an innovative complication: a monopusher twin chronograph with time difference display.

Read more in the HH Magazine Special issue for Baselworld 2013

 

In this 30th anniversary year of the Louis Vuitton Cup, prelude to the America’s Cup, the Parisian luggage-maker, and watchmaker since 2002, presents an innovative complication: a monopusher twin chronograph with time difference display. Read more in the HH Magazine Special issue for Baselworld 2013  

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Bâle en Forme ! CARRE 01 May 2013


  English version here

Aujourd’hui, place au carré, K’é pour les intimes. « Formidable !!! », je vous entends d’ici. C’est que vous êtes heureux, mais carrément crevés. Surtout si vous jouez depuis le début. Car, à Baselworld, les acteurs se distinguent sur la longueur, entre journées formelles et soirées informelles.

Dans cette foire réformée, l’on admirait beaucoup de bon K’é bien dessiné : Maurice Lacroix, Bell & Ross, ou encore Cyrus (illustration ci-dessus)… Mais comment trier le bon K’é du déformé ? L’original se tient bien droit, campé sur ses quatre côtés. Rythmé d’angles à 90 degrés, indéformables. On peut le caresser à loisir, jamais il ne devient vicieux ! Plutôt que de la fantaisie, il possède une carrure à toute épreuve. Mais tout cadre devient bon s’il est possible d’en sortir. Un bon K’é  parle de croix suisse, mais aussi de carrefours.

Dans vos poches, des cartes de visite par centaines (celles d’autrui on vous le souhaite). Vous voilà désormais parfaitement informé. Chaque jour vous avez disserté, entre grosses carrures, de la quadrature horlogère. Et aujourd’hui vous êtes crevé. Mais qui se plaindrait de rester sur le carreau, un K’é Hermès posé sur la tête ? A rêver de K’é VIP, dont celui des réputées soirées Breitling…

Pour clore en beauté, connaissez-vous le véritable point fort du K’é ? Il peut être de CHOCOLAT autant que d’AS…

(et surtout un diamant peut aussi être K’é)

  English version here Aujourd’hui, place au carré, K’é pour les intimes. « Formidable !!! », je vous entends d’ici. C’est que vous êtes heureux, mais carrément crevés. Surtout si vous jouez depuis le début. Car, à Baselworld, les acteurs se distinguent sur la longueur, entre journées formelles et soirées informelles. Dans cette foire réformée, l’on [...]

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Baselworld on form! TRIANGLE. 01 May 2013


Version française ici

In yesterday’s report, we had eyes like saucers for the CIRCLE. Today we continue to shape up with the TRIANGLE. Represented here as t^^^e so as to avoid a pyramid of synonyms (ditto yesterday’s c****e, for those who are keeping track).

Let’s start by getting an angle on our subject: a man, a woman, a watch.

Gallantry requires that ladies go first. What does the t^^^e conjure up in Madam’s mind? Errrr… A DIAMOND perhaps? Predictable, yet still my beating heart! Especially after stocking up, vicariously at least, at specialists such as Graff and Harry Winston. The former has made the diamond its emblem. The latter materialises its form in the facetted dome at the centre of the Opus XIII. It’s rumoured that had he been able to, Harry, the founder, would have set (incrusted?) diamonds directly on women’s skin. They say you must suffer to be beautiful. Were a river of brilliants to mysteriously vanish, could I blame it on the Bermuda Triangle?

Let’s move along, before I find myself writing this from my cell. Where else might the t^^^e be lurking? Are those CAT ears I spot over there? This year, Ulysse Nardin presents Jade whose horns are adorned with pointy-tipped ears. And no chipping of varnished nails on this feline’s cheek, sorry, crown. This manicure-friendly timepiece is wound and set by means of a pusher rather than pulling out the crown.

Having exhausted the subject of diamonds and kittens, let’s turn to men. Ah! the t^^^e… the ocean breeze, a billowing sail, the tip of a Papuan arrow! This aficionado of unconventional watches has impeccable taste. He loves the Arceau Voilier by Hermès, blown along by spinnakers in plique-à-jour enamel. As well-off as his diamond-loving fiancée, this gentlemen is also seen sporting Speake-Marin’s Triad with its triple indication of hours and minutes. When they argue about their relative spending habits – what could they possibly reproach each other?! – they resolve their disputes in a three-way conversation with their trusted psychiatrist.

As this little investigation shows, the t^^^e has nothing to envy the c****e in watchmaking. For while the Vitruvian Man is inscribed in a circle, the t^^^e is golden (ding-a-ling, ding-a-ling)…

Version française ici In yesterday’s report, we had eyes like saucers for the CIRCLE. Today we continue to shape up with the TRIANGLE. Represented here as t^^^e so as to avoid a pyramid of synonyms (ditto yesterday’s c****e, for those who are keeping track). Let’s start by getting an angle on our subject: a man, [...]

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Bâle en Forme! TRIANGLE 29 Apr 2013


English version here

Dans le précédent billet, nous nous concentrions sur le ROND. Après cette première remise en forme horlogère, pointons vers le triangle. Figuré dans cette chronique par t^^^e, toujours dans le but d’alléger la pyramide des synonymes (comme hier avec le r**d pour ceux qui suivent).

Afin de situer notre sujet, cernons-le par triangulation. Un homme, une femme, une montre.

Par galanterie, posons la question d’abord à la demoiselle. Qu’évoque pour elle un t^^^e ? Heu… Un DIAMANT peut-être ? Fort convenu, mais je défaille un peu en l’écrivant. Surtout après avoir fait mes emplettes – ok, ma wish list – chez des spécialistes, comme Graff ou Harry Winston. Le premier en a fait son emblème. Le second l’évoque jusqu’au cœur de l’Opus XIII, dans un dôme à facettes. Et semblerait-il que, s’il l’avait pu, Harry, le fondateur, aurait placé (incrusté ?) les diamants directement sur la peau des femmes. Cette pointe de masochisme ultra-luxueux ferait presque rêver. Au fait, si une rivière s’envolait, peut-être pourrais-je accuser le triangle des Bermudes…

Continuons cette chronique, avant que je ne la finisse de ma cellule. Où d’autre débusquer le t^^^e? Je l’ai vu dans les oreilles d’un CHAT(-on, c’est encore plus mignon). Ulysse Nardin présente cette année la « Jade », où des oreilles pointues garnissent les cornes ! Et nul besoin de s’abîmer le vernis sur la joue-couronne du félin. Le réglage « manucure friendly » se fait par un poussoir plutôt que par une traction de la couronne.

Après avoir parlé de diamants et de chatons, tournons-nous donc vers l’homme. Ah, le triangle… Le vent du large, la voile qui se gonfle vers de nouveaux horizons, la flèche du Papou ! Cet amateur de montres audacieux possède un goût sûr. Il aime l’Arceau Pocket Voilier d’Hermès, sur laquelle battent des spinakers en émail plique-à-jour. Aussi aisé que sa fiancée amatrice de diamants, cet homme porte aussi la Triad de Speake-Marin, avec une triple indication heures minutes. D’ailleurs quand ils se disputent au sujet de leurs dépenses respectives – pourtant fort raisonnables ! non ? – ils résolvent le conflit par triangulation chez leur psy de confiance.

Vous l’avez compris, après enquête, en horlogerie, le t^^^e n’a rien à envier au r**d. Car si l’homme de Vitruve se tient dans un cercle, le t^^^e est d’or. (Roulement de triangles et merci!)

English version here Dans le précédent billet, nous nous concentrions sur le ROND. Après cette première remise en forme horlogère, pointons vers le triangle. Figuré dans cette chronique par t^^^e, toujours dans le but d’alléger la pyramide des synonymes (comme hier avec le r**d pour ceux qui suivent). Afin de situer notre sujet, cernons-le par [...]

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Baselworld on form! CIRCLE. 29 Apr 2013


I spent my first day at Baselworld going round in circles. Not the girth of the gentlemen overindulging in champagne bubbles but in search of the form itself. And imagine my surprise to find myself encircled by circles! Enough to send anyone into a spin. So as not to get caught on the rebound, and avoid spots before the eyes, for the purposes of this report, “circle” will be replaced by c****e.

So, is the c****e the centre of watchmaking? A small conceptual sidestep takes us neatly into the solar cycle, the waltz of time, and life’s learning curve (acknowledgements to my bearded colleague for this poetic interlude).

All these orbs are reproduced in the object of our attentions, the watch, in tourbillons, screws, wheels, even entire cases. One c****e turns into another, their voluptuous curves perfectly formed. But why, from a technical viewpoint, is watchmaking so spherically inclined?

Possibility number one: the omnipresent wheel. “The wheel is an extraordinarily fertile invention that would pave the way for mechanisation and provide a means of harnessing new sources of energy” (says Wikipedia). Square wheels never really took off. Right angles aren’t the right angle for getting things moving, so it seems. Indeed, the square end of the sliding pinion serves to block the stem! When the mainspring is wound it coils around the barrel arbor and, as it returns to its original shape, drives the barrel drum. This produces power that is transferred to the gears. In a mechanical movement, forms combine to create energy.

Hypothesis number two, put forward by a moustachioed watchmaker (am I the only one seeing a pattern here? beards, moustaches…), is more original. Squares are more likely to induce error. For example, that one side of a large square should be a millimetre out has little consequence. But if other, smaller parts have to fit inside this square – and tiny parts are legion in watchmaking – this millimetre suddenly takes on far greater proportions! And if there is one thing watchmakers detest, it’s that an infinitesimally small error should take a turn for the worse.

A perfect circle is so easy to draw. The tip of a toothpick, a loose thread from a napkin, and there it is marked out on the table. The absence of angles helps smooth life’s edges. At Baselworld, more than anywhere else, we’re surrounded by circles. Two of my favourites: the opening above Hall 1 and the Charming Bird inside its bubble at Jaquet Droz.

No doubt you’ve encountered more… So long life to the c****e in all its forms!

A book on circles: Movement by Guido Mocafido, available from Watchprint (in the Palace at Baselworld or online.

French version

I spent my first day at Baselworld going round in circles. Not the girth of the gentlemen overindulging in champagne bubbles but in search of the form itself. And imagine my surprise to find myself encircled by circles! Enough to send anyone into a spin. So as not to get caught on the rebound, and [...]

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The Co-Axial movement is second nature for Omega 29 Apr 2013


The Co-Axial is ubiquitous at Omega, in its calibres, in its communication, and now in its genes. Hardly surprising, then, that the company has made co-axial technology its rallying cry for 2013. Stephen Urquhart, President of Omega, explains.

Read the article in the HH Magazine

The Co-Axial is ubiquitous at Omega, in its calibres, in its communication, and now in its genes. Hardly surprising, then, that the company has made co-axial technology its rallying cry for 2013. Stephen Urquhart, President of Omega, explains. Read the article in the HH Magazine

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